A LARGE KESI ‘100 BUTTERFLIES’ SILK PANEL, QING DYNASTY

China, probably Wenzhou, Zhenjiang province, circa 1750-1850. The panel on the reverse probably dates from the 15^th-16^th century.

This finely woven kesi silk panel is intricately designed with colorful butterflies in countless variations, densely interwoven with abundant flowers such as chrysanthemums, peonies, magnolia, lilies and many more. The pale apricot background compliments the delicate pastel shades of blue, pink, yellow, green and purple used for the butterflies and floral elements. The branches and leaves are stylized yet convey a natural sense of movement, adding vibrancy and elegance to the composition.

Provenance: From the private collection of Suzanne Braley, thence by descent. Suzanne Henriette Marguerite Braley (1893-1970) was a banker based in Monte Carlo, Monaco. She also lived in Shanghai between around 1910 and 1920, where she collected Chinese antiques including snuff bottles, porcelain, and paintings.
Condition: Excellent overall condition. The front panel exhibits very little soiling, minimal creasing, and only a few loose threads. It must be regarded as exceedingly rare in such a pristine state of preservation. The reverse panel shows more extensive old wear, some losses, soiling, and discoloration, yet remains in very good condition considering its probable age of >500 years.

Dimensions: ca. 154 x 53 cm

The panel is framed by ornate woven silk borders in shades of pink and dark blue, featuring stylized floral and geometric motifs. The reverse features a fine damask silk panel in a monochrome golden-brown tone, woven with a dense cloud scroll motif, which probably dates to the mid-Ming dynasty.

The hundred butterflies motif was a highly popular decorative theme in Imperial art, textiles, porcelain, and lacquerware in China during the Qing dynasty. This motif carried deep symbolic meaning, reflecting auspiciousness, longevity, prosperity, and beauty. The motif was particularly favored in the Qianlong Emperor's reign (1735–1796), a period known for artistic flourishing and intricate decorative designs.

Kesi, which means ‘cut silk’, derives from the visual illusion of cut threads that is created by distinct, unblended areas of color, as the weft threads are woven into each color and then cut. The earliest surviving examples of kesi tapestries date to the Tang dynasty (618-907), although the technique became widely applied only during the Song dynasty (1127-1379). In the Ming dynasty (1368-1644), kesi panels enjoyed a rise in popularity. During the Qing dynasty (1644-1911), official weaving workshops were established both in the palace and in the cities of Jiangning, Suzhou and Hangzhou, in order to cater to the court’s increasing demand for palace and temple furnishings, clothing and presentation silks for civil and military officials. Specialized centers of production soon developed around this area, such as the city of Wenzhou, Zhenjiang province, which became particularly famous for its luxurious kesi tapestries.

Literature comparison:
Compare a related kesi woman’s jacket with butterflies, dating to the late 19^th – early 20^th century, in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Object number: 45.125.15.

Auction result comparison:
Type: Related
Auction: Zacke, Vienna, 6 March 2021, lot 613
Price: EUR 20,224 or approx. EUR 23,500 adjusted for inflation at the time of writing
Description: A Kesi ‘Butterflies’ Informal Lady’s Robe, Late Qing Dynasty
Expert remark: Compare the closely related subject, and kesi technique.