China, 19^th century. The robe is worked in couched gold thread and multi-colored satin stitch on the upper half with four five-clawed dragons amidst clouds and Buddhist emblems, all above the terrestrial diagram at the waist. The attached pleated and flared apron similarly worked and joined by a narrow waistband decorated with confronted dragons. The robe fitted with fine gilt metal buttons.

Provenance: From an old German private collection, assembled during the 1970s and 1980s.
Condition: Good condition with some wear and traces of use, little soiling, loose threads, minor tears, few small losses.

Dimensions: Length 112 cm, Width 218 cm

The chaofu, or attire of state, is the most important of the ceremonial costumes of the Qing court comprising: chaopao or robe of the state, piling or projecting epaulets, hat, girdle, court necklace, and boots. The two-part construction of chaopao consisted of a short side-fastening jacket attached to a pleated skirt, derived from Ming styles of court dress, and was adapted by the Manchu to incorporate features reflecting their equestrian heritage, such as the curved overlapping right front, a shape derived from animal skins which was added for extra covering and protection; narrow sleeves with their lower portion replaced with ribbed silk, allowing the wearer to bend his arm more easily when hunting; and horse-hoof cuffs, originally intended to protect the hands when riding in bad weather.

The present chaopao is embroidered with four front-facing, five-clawed dragons on the upper body and four five-clawed dragons shown in profile on the skirt, which correspond to the specifications cited in Huangchao liqi tushi (Illustrated Precedents for the Ritual Paraphernalia of the Imperial Court) for a first-rank or second-rank prince.

Literature comparison: Several examples of these important robes can be found in museum collections, including a similar deep-blue silk gauze chaofu, dated to 1870-80, in the Museum of Fine Arts Boston, number 1974.408, and another embroidered silk chaofu in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, number 35.84.3, dated to the second half of the 19th century.

Auction result comparison: Compare a closely related robe, 141.6 cm long and 195.5 cm wide, also dated to the 19^th century and embroidered with four front-facing, five-clawed dragons on the upper body and four five-clawed dragons shown in profile on the skirt, at Christie’s New York in Important Chinese Ceramics and Works of Art on 25 September 2020, lot 1618, sold for USD 12,500.


清代石青色龍紋朝服
中國，十九世紀。圓領，大襟右衽，馬蹄袖，上衣下裳相連屬式，綴銅鎏金扣五枚。石青色地，上衣部分平金彩繡雲龍，腰襴繡海水二龍戲珠，膝襴處雲龍海水紋，構圖繁複莊重。配有精美的鎏金鈕扣。

來源：德國私人老收藏，建立於上世紀七十至八十年代。
品相：狀況良好，有一些磨損和使用痕跡，輕微污漬，絲線鬆動，輕微撕裂，輕微小缺損。

尺寸：長112 厘米, 寬 218 厘米

拍賣結果比較：比較一件十分相近的十九世紀朝服，長141.6 厘米，寬195.5 厘米，四條正面五爪龍，四條側面五爪龍，見紐約佳士得Important Chinese Ceramics and Works of Art 2020年9月25日 lot 1618, 售價USD 12,500。